Photograph: Ben Matthews

Where have all the ‘Fiddich’s gone?


Recent travels abroad have made me wonder why products from Wm. Grant & Sons aren’t available anymore. A couple of enquiries and talking to the sales people in the store revealed the story behind the removal of Glenfiddich, Balvenie and Grant’s from Norwegian Duty Free stores.

All whiskies from Wm Grant & Sons (Glenfiddich, Balvenie and Grant’s) have been absent from Norwegian Duty Free shops for about a year now. The same applies to Duty Free stores at many German and Austrian airports, as well as the ones in Budapest, Copenhagen and other who are a part of the Gebr. Heinemann-family.

The story goes that at a meeting (late 2007) between Gebr. Heinemann’s chief negotiator (a gent with the given name of Adolf) and Wm Grant & Sons’ Travel Retail division ended with Heinemann demanding a price reduction while Wm Grant demanded an increase. The meeting ended in Gebr. Heinemann delisting all Wm. Grant & Sons products.

Being the, at the time, third largest operator in the Travel Retail industry have given Gebr. Heinemann a bit of muscle when it comes to squize suppliers on price, but up againt the third largest whisky producer in the UK, the biggest selling malt in the world and the fourth biggest scotch brand in the world a stalemate has ensued.

Still no sign of anybody giving in.

      

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

New Glenmorangie “Private Collection” exclusive to Travel Retail

I just got this information today from my U.S. Glenmorangie contact. In a couple months, there will be a new Glenmorangie exclusive to Travel Retail (formerly known as Duty Free). I have an advanced press release on it, which I have included below.

Glenmorangie reveals new PRIVATE COLLECTION with Sonnalta PX

Glenmorangie’s NEW Private Collection is a range of rare, limited edition expressions from Glenmorangie’s award winning Whisky Creators. Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX is the first delicious expression in this Private Collection and is exclusive to global travel retail.

Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX takes its name from the Gaelic translation of “generous” (Sonnalta) and PX (Pedro Ximenez) where the elegant fruity, floral complexity of mature Glenmorangie is transferred to “PX” ex-sherry casks from Jerez in Southern Spain for a period of extra maturation.

Dr Bill Lumsden, Head of Distilling and Whisky Creation, comments;  ‘Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX is an extraordinarily rich, dark and absording malt whisky.  I take the twice yearly trip to Spain to select the very best PX casks to use alongside our mainstay bourbon barrels from the US. This is our first release for Glenmorangie’s Private Collection, with more rare, delicious releases to come in the future.’

No picture is available yet, and I still don’t have any more information or pricing on it. For those not familiar, PX sherry is incredibly rich, sweet, “raisiny” and dark. (For reference, the Lagavulin Distillers’ Edition is finished in PX sherry.) I’m looking forward to trying this one.

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Strathisla 1963 Vintage

Considering that I recently rated a whiskey on this blog a 69, I thought I would end the work week on a happier note. This whisky was poured at our charity table at WhiskyFest New York last November and was very popular.

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Strathisla), 1963, 40%, $275
Some of these old G&M Strathisla whiskies are quite lovely, and this is one of them. It’s gently sherried, soothingly oily in texture, and complex, with notes of maple syrup, candied fruit, plum, roasted nuts, polished leather, and old oak, along with some damp earth, coffee bean, cinnamon, mint, and subtle, teasing kiln smoke. It’s soft, rounded and still holds up nicely for a 44 years old whisky. If you like old, sherried Speysiders that aren’t overly oaked or sherried, you’ll like this one. If only it was bottled at 43% or 46% (or at natural cask strength of it was less than 43%). It would give the whisky a little more backbone, and I might have bumped my rating up to the mid-90s.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

Two Littlemills

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

Whisky sales in Norway, 2008


Whisky has never really been “in” in Norway, that honour has been reserved for the French brandy, Cognac. But slowly it’s been building a following that drinks no matter what. This has been proven the last year, and specially after the infamous “Credit Crunch” started. According to the 2008-figures, sales of whisky increased by 1.5% while Cognac was down 5.5%. The sales of malts are up 2.8% to 91,722 liters in total, giving a malt share of 6.7% (up from 6.6% in 2007).

Of the top 250-brands of spirits sold in Norway in 2008, whereof 28 are whiskies and a mere 7 are malts. These 7 malts account for 47.5% of the total sales of malts in Norway. Not surprisingly the winner is Glenfiddich 12yo, with Glen Moray 8yo and The Glenlivet 12yo trailing.

Quick numbers:

  • Biggest increase (%): Linkwood 14yo (Dun Bheagan) / 11633% (sold only 3 bottles in 2007, arriving late in the year)
  • Biggest increase (litres): Glen Moray 8yo / 1842 litres (33%)
  • Biggest decrease (%): Several / -100% (products mainly discontinued in 2007)
  • Biggest decrease (litres): Scottish Pride Pure Malt 12yo (Vatted) / -2938 litres (discontinued)
  • Best newcomer: The Singleton of Dufftown / 601 litres
  • Best non-Scottish Malt: Yoichi 10yo / 130 litres

The not so quick numbers (also know as the whole shebang):

Brand nameLitres sold 2007Litres sold 2008Diff litresDiff %
Glenfiddich Single Malt 12 Years Old10 51311 3097968%
Glen Moray Single Malt 8 Years Old5 5907 4321 84233%
The Glenlivet Single Malt 12 Years Old5 0595 3142555%
Laphroaig Single Malt 10 Years Old4 7964 9401443%
Ledaig4 3394 91857813%
Highland Park Single Malt 12 Years Old4 2994 86356413%
Glenmorangie The Original4 7284 789611%
Bruichladdich Vintage 20012 7873 74195434%
Lagavulin Single Malt 16 Years Old3 6063 675692%
Macallan Fine Oak Single Malt 12 Years Old2 2912 57628512%
Caol Ila 12 Years Old2 2262 50928313%
Glenfiddich Caoran Reserve 12 Years Old1 8402 16832818%
Lagavulin Special Release Natural Cask Strength 12 Years Old2 2991 866-433-19%
Scottish Pride Pure Malt 12 Years Old4 6831 745-2 938-63%
Talisker 18 Years Old1 3671 64227420%
Balvenie Doublewood 12 Y.O.1 2071 64143436%
Smokehead Single Malt2 3871 523-865-36%
Dalwhinnie Single Malt 15 Years Old1 2311 47023919%
The Famous Grouse Malt Whisky 12 Years Old1 6001 424-176-11%
Ardbeg 10 Years Old9681 31134335%
Oban Single Malt 14 Years Old1 1261 25012411%
Laphroaig Quarter Cask1 4611 245-217-15%
Caol Ila Cask Strength1111 1511 040934%
Talisker 10 Years Old6291 09746874%
Glengoyne 10 Years Old1 0351 072374%
The Fat Trout Single Malt1 3641 067-298-22%
Bowmore Single Malt 12 Years Old7891 00221427%
Isle of Jura Single Malt 10 Years Old319709393050%
Glenkinchie 12 Years Old358107752214%
Glen Scanlan Reserve2 278748-1 530-67%
Singleton of Dufftown601601
Springbank Single Malt 10 Years Old547591448%
The Fat Trout Single Malt 10 Years Old575575
Bennachie 21 Years Old753386-368-49%
Cragganmore 12 Years Old1 280327-954-74%
Blair Athol 12 Years Old420301-119-28%
Glenfarclas Single Malt 12 Years Old756248-508-67%
Linkwood 14 Years Old224624411633%
The Arran 100 Proof92282192408%
Berry’s Own Selections Caol Ila 19821472278054%
Glen Gyle Vatted Malt 8 Years Old561219-342-61%
Armorik Single Malt de Bretagne550204-346-63%
Ardbeg Renaissance188188
Caol Ila 12 Years Old Single Malt1621882616%
Glenrothes Select Reserve Single Malt8818294106%
Murray McDavid Littlemill 19911421783625%
Lagavulin Distillers Edition Double Matured Maltwhisky991585858%
Linkwood Dun Bheagan Vintage Bottling 10 Years Old890139-750-84%
Glenfiddich Solera Reserve 15 Y.O.831324959%
Yoichi 10 Years Old3513095270%
Highland Park 18 y.o.175123-53-30%
Glengoyne 10 Years Old highland Single Malt671225583%
The Arran 10 Years Old543120-423-78%
Aberlour 10 Years Old125120-5-4%
Dalmore 12 Y.O. Single Highland Malt117114-3-2%
Bunnahabhain 12 Y.O. Single Islay Malt14299-43-30%
Ardbeg Blasda9595
Longrow 100 Proof 10 Years Old13194-37-28%
Auchentoshan Three Wood Lowland Single Malt66872132%
Ardbeg Still Young8786-1-1%
The Balvenie Single Barrel 15 Years Old39385-307-78%
Old Pulteney 12 Years Old Single Malt188567384%
Macleod’s Whisky Trail67841725%
Mackmyra Single Malt Whisky First7777
Ardbeg Almost There29676-220-74%
Cragganmore Special Edition 29 Years Old373702500%
The Glenlivet Nadurra 16 Years Old Cask Strength6767
Scapa Single Malt 14 Y.O.7167-4-6%
The Glenlivet 15 Y.O. French Oak Reserve52641324%
Springbank 19966363
Ardbeg Uigeadail50621224%
The Glenlivet XXV Years Old6262
Jons utvalgte single malt Isle of Arran 7 år11361-53-46%
Chiftain’s Brora 1981 24 Years Old Sherry Butt156045305%
Laphroaig Single Malt 15 Years Old6060
Springbank 100 Proof 10 Years Old12660-67-53%
Berry’s Own Selections Laphroaig 19905757
Glengoyne 12 Years Old28657-229-80%
Clynelish 14 Years Old Single Malt Whisky5353-1-1%
Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist6749-18-26%
Laphroaig Cask Strenght4048819%
Nikka Yoichi 15 Y.O.4148717%
The Glenlivet 18 Years Old4848
Glenfiddich Ancient Reserve 18 Y.O.5046-4-8%
Bowmore Darkest7145-27-37%
Caol Ila Aged 18 Years Islay Single Malt20445-159-78%
Ardbeg 1974114433294%
Glenmorangie The Nectar D’Òr64439688%
Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish31421136%
Chieftain’s Choice Dailuaine 1999 #57274040
Glengoyn 11 Single Bourbon Cask Oslo Whisky Festival4040
Ardbeg Lord of the Isles24391562%
Bruichladdich Mòine Mhòr 3D 2nd Edition15039-111-74%
Caol Ila Distillers Edition6036-23-39%
Johnnie Walker Green Label2935619%
Longmorn Single Malt 15 Years Old3934-6-14%
Oban Distillers Edition23331042%
The Arran 1998 Bourbon Cask Ed. #98/6723333
Castle Rock 12 Years Old Pure Malt3232
Ballantine’s Pure Malt 12 Years Old19531-165-84%
Mackmyra Preludium:0410430-74-71%
Glenmorangie The Quinta Ruban62923413%
Longrow CV2929
Bruichladdich Waves2028843%
The BenRiach Curiositas Peated Single Malt 10 Years Old2828
Benromach Traditional Single Malt2727-1-3%
Bunnahabhain 18 Years Old2727
Glen Scotia 31 May 1999 American Oak #7862519300%
Talisker Distillers Edition6925-44-64%
Berry’s Own Selection Port Ellen 19822525
Duncan Taylor Caol Ila 15 Years Old122513106%
Glenmorangie Astar2525
Glenmorangie Madeira Wood Finish1525959%
Macallan Eilan Gillan Single Cask 19904025-15-39%
Glenfarclas Single Malt 10 Years Old3424-10-29%
Glengoyne 17 Y.O Single Highland Malt Whisky2724-4-13%
Springbank 2000 cask no. 4012424
Benromach Organic Single Malt72215220%
Bowmore Single Malt 18 Years Old3022-8-26%
Glenmorangie 15 Years Old102213129%
Isle of Jura Superstition Single Malt4622-23-51%
Ardmore Highland Single Malt2222
Highland Park 30 Years Old4922-27-56%
Macallan Fine Oak Single Malt 18 Years Old2722-6-21%
The Arran Sherry Cask Ed. 58,1 %2222-1-3%
Arran single cask 199612620-106-84%
Dun Bheagan Bunnahabhain 1994, 11 Y.O. Manzanilla Finish42016383%
Highland Park 25 Years Old2720-6-24%
Tamdhu Rare Auld Single Malt 39 Years Old62014222%
Glenfarclas 15 Years Old1320756%
The Glenrothes 19914120-21-52%
The BenRiach Single Malt 12 Years Old1919
Banff Rarest of the Rare Single Malt 26 Years Old1118873%
Duncan Taylor Imperial Single Malt 13 Years Old1518318%
Glenfiddich 30 Years Old81810117%
Port Ellen 29 Years Old1818
Glenfiddich Gran Reserva 21 Y.O.1318539%
Glenfarclas 1052417-7-28%
Highland Park 12 Years Old Dr. Jekyll’s Single Cask1717
The BenRiach Authenticus Peated Single Malt 21 Years Old1717
Port Ellen Old Malt Cask 24 Years Old2916-13-45%
Balvenie PortWood 21 Y.O.2115-6-27%
Berry’s Own Selection Glenlivet 19751115438%
Glenmorangie Artisan Cask1315215%
Bruichladdich 18 Years Old Isly Single Malt1515
Glenmorangie 18 Years Old1915-4-22%
Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish1115431%
Bruichladdich Full Strength Second Edition 19941114433%
Dun Bheagan Brora 1981 24 Y.O. Fino Sherry Butt1014443%
Rosebank 1991 Connoisseurs Choice31411400%
Springbank 15 Y. O. Campbeltown Singel Malt1814-4-23%
Hazelburn 8 Y.O.3213-18-58%
Penderyn Single Malt Welsh Whisky1813-4-24%
Tomintoul Single Malt 10 Years Old1313
Bunnahabhain Rare Auld Single Malt 39 Years Old813564%
Glen Elgin Adelphi 1990 16 Years Old1313
Highland Park 15, Alc-hem-ist2213-9-42%
Old Pulteney 1993 Cask Strength1313
Caperdonich Rare Auld Single Malt 34 Years Old812442%
Coftengea 22 January 1997 Heavely Peated American Oak #325127143%
Duncan Taylor Macallan Single Malt 12 Years Old612689%
Tullibardine Singel Malt 19931212
Bunnahabhain Adelphi 1997 9 Years Old1111
Chieftain’s Dalmore Cask Strenght 10 Years Old4811-37-77%
Laphroaig Single Malt 30 Years Old4118220%
Springbank 1991 16 Years Old Rhum Wood1511-4-24%
Talisker 25 Years3118300%
Tullibardine Singel Malt 19881111
Benromach Peat Smoke Single Malt1111
Chieftain’s Choice Springbank 19691111
Royal Brackla 1991 Connoisseurs Choice2118400%
Springbank Vintage 1997 # 1111100%
Berry’s Own Selection Bladnoch 19925105100%
Berry’s Own Selection Linkwood 19853107250%
Croftengea 3 March 2003 Heavely Peated Sherry Butt #191018%
Glen Albyn 19791010
Glenmorangie Signet1010
Karuizawa 1973 Martin’s Selection of Single Cask1010
Benrinnes Adelphi 1984 21 Years Old99
Caol Ila Dun Bheagan Vintage Bottling 12 Years Old cask strength279-18-67%
Dun Bheagan Caol Ila 1991, 15 Y.O. Hogshead1981200%
Laphroaig Old Malt Cask 12 Years Old229-13-59%
Macallan Fine Oak Single Malt 25 Years Old119-1-13%
Berry’s Own Selection Inchgower 198068350%
Dalmore Gran Reserva Single Malt88
Glendronach Single Malt 12 Y.O.308-22-72%
Glenmorangie The Lasanta58471%
Talisker 30 Years484100%
The BenRiach Single Malt 16 Years Old88
Armore 1991 Cask 57,3%88
Auld Reekie 10 Years Old Distinctively Smoky88
Cadenhead’s Clynelish 1993108-2-21%
Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt 21 Years Old118-3-27%
Laphroaig 25 Years Old88
Clynelish Exclusive Malt 1994 11 Years Old77
Clynelish Murray McDavid 1990157-8-55%
Dalla Dhu 198077
Dallas Dhu 197577
Macduff Rare Auld Single Malt 38 Years Old7700%
Berry’s Own Selection Bruichladdich 199166
Brora 25 Years Old66
Caperdonich 196866
Dalmore Single Malt 15 Years Old66
Glen Scotia 1975, 31 Y.O. Barrel #219166
Imperial Exclusive Malts 1994 11 Years Old66
Longrow 14 Years Old156-9-59%
Longrow Tokaji Wood Expressen56129%
Macallan Fine Oak Single Malt 30 Years Old364125%
Macallan Old Malt Cask 22 Years Old56129%
Bladnoch 16 Y.O. Bourbon Matured66
Bunnahabhain Peated 10 Y.O Chieftain’s Chois66
Glenfarclas The Family Casks 197866
Glenkinchie Distiller’s Edition 199266
Glenlochy 198066
Inchmurin 15 January 2003 Unpeated American Oak #41466
Littlemill 1985 Connoisseurs Choice363100%
Longrow 18 Years Old66
Macallan 14, Alc-hem-ist166-11-65%
Port Ellen 198266
Cadenhead’s Dailuaine 1989 Cask Strength45117%
Glen Douglas 27 Juni 2001 Unpeated American Oak #333055
Glenmorangie Burgundy Wood Finish75-2-30%
Longrow 10 Y.O. Campeltown Single Malt35275%
Longrow 1996 10 Y.O. Campbeltown Single Malt155-10-67%
Ardbeg 16 Years Old64-1-25%
Banff 197144
Berry’s Own Selection Mortlach 199664-2-33%
Bunnahabhain 25 Years Old44
Carsebridge 197944
Inchmurrin 7 May 2002 Unpeated Madeira Puncheon #1044
Port Ellen 28 Years374-33-89%
Strathisla 40 Years Rare Auld Cask Strenght44
The Arran 1996 Bourbon Cask Ed. #2092244-20-82%
Benromach Single Malt 25 Years Old44
Brora 30 Years4400%
Bruichladdich 125th Anniversery134-10-74%
Connoisseurs Choice Tomatin 198844
Craoi Na Móna Irish Single Malt143400%
Glenmorangie Margaux Cask Finish84-5-58%
Glenugie 197744
Gordon & MacPhail Longmorn 1973 Cask Strenght44
Inverleven 197744
Inverleven 29 Years Old Rarest of the Rare Cask Strength44
Rosebank 1990, 18 Y.O. Sherry Butt #61144
Springbank 14 Years Old NC244
Benromach Single Malt 21 Y.O.103-7-71%
Bladnoch 15 Y.O. Sherry Matured33
Brora Single Malt 30 Years Old153-13-82%
Caol Ila Provenance Winter Destilation 8 Years Old113-8-73%
Dalwhinnie 20 Y.O.73-4-60%
Gordon & MacPhail Bruichladdich 1990 Cask Strenght33
Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old Malt Glenugie 196833
Port Charlotte Alchemist 46 %533-50-95%
Springbank Single Malt 3243-1-20%
Talisker 25 Years Old Single Malt343-32-92%
The BenRiach Single Malt 20 Years Old33
Tomintoul Single Malt 27 Years Old33
Bruichladdich Infinity352-33-94%
Bruichladdich Links Birkdale 15 Y.O22
Bruichladdich XVII Single Malt212-19-90%
Cadenhead’s Lochside 1981 Cask Strength62-4-67%
Caol Ila Exclusive Malt 1993 12 Years Old22
Dallas Dhu 198122
Glenfarclas 30 Years Old62-4-63%
Glenlivet 39 Years Rare Auld Cask Strenght22
Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old Malt St. Magdeleine 197522
Cadenhead’s Ardmore 1977 Cask Strength61-4-75%
Cadenhead’s Cragganmore 1989 Cask Strength81-6-82%
Cadenhead’s Macduff 1989 Cask Strength101-8-86%
Caperdonich 38 Years Old Lonach Cask Strenght11
Connoisseurs Choice Glen Keith 196711
Springbank 25111100%
Benromach 39 Years Ols21-1-67%
Berry’s Own Selection Auchentoshan 1991011
Bruichladdich 21 Y.O. Oloroso11
Bruichladdich Legacy Series VI Single Malt11
Caol Ila 8 Years Old51-4-86%
Clynelish Distiller’s Edition11
Connoisseurs Choice Mannochmore 199011
Glen Grant 33 Years Old Rare Auld Cask Strenght11
Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt 195411-1-50%
Glenfarclas The Family Casks 195811
Glenlivet 39 Years Lonach Old Cask Strenght11
Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood 91 Cask Strenght11
Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Mortlach 195711
Longrow Gaja Barolo Wood Expression11
Mcduff Platinum 35 Years Old1100%
Port Ellen 27 Years Old41-3-80%
Ardbeg Mór120-12-100%
Arran Single Malt00
Auchentoshan 10 Y.O.00
Auchentoshan Lowland Malt 10 Y.O. 43%00
Connoisseurs Collection Jura 199110-1-100%
Famous Grouse Vintage Malt 199200
Gleniffer Pure Malt 5 Years Old00
Laphroaig 10 Y. O.000
Springbank 12 Years Old Single Malt Anniversery00
TALISKER CLASS MALT 45 %00
The Peat Monster Vatted Malt130-13-100%
Aberlour a’bunadh60-60-100%
Balvenie Founders Reserve 10 Y.O.00
Bennachie 10 Y.O.6-6-100%
Bennachie 17 Y.O.2-2-100%
Bowmore 17 Y. O. Single Malt17-17-100%
Braeval Provenanse Summe Distillation 8 Years Old1-1-100%
Bruichladdich 19731-1-100%
Bruichladdich Full Strenght Islay Single Malt1-1-100%
Connoseur Collection Port Ellen 19822-2-100%
Connoseur Collection Rosebank 19901-1-100%
Cragganmore 17 Y.O.9-9-100%
Glen Ranoch Single Highland Malt 40%00
Glengoyne 15 Years Scottish Oak Finish12-12-100%
Glenkinchie 20 Years4-4-100%
Glenmorangie Single Highland Malt 18 years old00
Lagavulin 21 Years13-13-100%
Laphroiag Single Islay Malt Scotch Whisky00
Longrow 10 Years Old Single Malt2-2-100%
Mortlach Murray McDavid 199020-20-100%
Scapa 12 Y. O.1-1-100%
Springbank 12 Years Old Bourbon Wood Expression7-7-100%
Stewart’s Malt1-1-100%
Strathisla3-3-100%
Talisker 30 Years Old Single Malt15-15-100%
The Six Isles Malt18-18-100%
Tormore Single Malt 12 Years Old11-11-100%
Totalt89 20991 7222 5142,8%

Here’s a few other tables of statistics for those, other than me, who like numbers:



Liter solgt 2007Liter solgt 2008Diff literDiff %
MaltwhiskySkottland88 46191 2082 7463,1%
Frankrike550204-346-62,8%
Japan76187111147,2%
Sverige10410732,9%
Wales1813-4-24,0%
Irland143400,0%
Totalt sales, malts89 20991 7222 5142,8%
OtherScotland893 884886 503-7 381-0,8%
Ireland155 515164 6819 1665,9%
Canada124 438132 4678 0306,5%
USA78 84586 1047 2589,2%
Sweden2103049545,1%
Japan17181164954,1%
India1815-3-16,0%
New Zealand149-5-35,0%
France63-3-48,2%
Total sales, other1 252 9461 270 26817 3221,4%
Total sales

1 342 1551 361 99019 8351,5%
      

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

WWOP? (What would Obama Pour?)

I try to avoid politics when writing about whisky, but I found this one too interesting to pass up. I’m reading this article by Ian Evans for Decanter magazine. He says that online magazine Slate.com:

“has slammed the White House wine policy - and urged President Obama to act swifty to redress the ’shocking’ situation.”

He goes on: 

Describing the need for change as ’shockingly clear’, Slate journalist Mike Steinberger said the White House’s current stock of 500 bottles was ‘a pathetic example of how America’s infrastructure has been allowed to deteriorate’…The preference for ‘juvenile behemoth’ fruit bombs over wines with delicacy, finesse and ageing potential, is similar to the ’shock and awe’ tactics of the Bush regime’s foreign policy, Steinberger says. ‘The White House needs a new wine policy. Wine service during the Bush era has been hostage to a profoundly misguided strategy that has turned wine into an unnecessarily crude instrument of statecraft’.

Wow! Puts a whole new spin on Bruichladdich’s “Weapons of Mass Destruction.”  Maybe, in the name of world peace, the Obama administration should make sure there are no Rittenhouse Ryes 100 proof or Laphroaig Cask Strengths on the after dinner drinks list, but rather a much mellower Maker’s Mark or perhaps a nice, soft Dewar’s 12 year old?  ;)

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

Miyagikyou 1998



The Yoichi 1988 has now arrived in Europe. Two hundred bottles have been shipped by Nikka to La Maison du Whisky.

Meanwhile, the Yoichi`s sister tipple, Miyagikyou 1988, hit the shelves in Japan this week. It costs 21,000 yen a bottle. 1,500 bottles available. 50 per cent alcohol.

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

Kilts, cummerbunds and kimonos at Whisky Live


Congratulations to the organisers of the Whisky Festival for a really great occasion. We now roll on to the biggest of all Japan`s whisky conclaves, Whisky Magazine Live! 2009.

This year`s event is a must for any Japanese whisky enthusiast within striking distance of Tokyo`s Big Sight (how to get there?) on February 22. There are more Japanese whisky focused master classes than ever before.

I should apologise to readers for not getting this up before the Yoichi and Chichibu talks sold out, but there are still tickets for Suntory`s Yamazaki and Hakushu master classes at the time of writing (Update: only a few seats left in the Yamazaki). Suntory is Japan`s biggest distiller but it is also one of its most innovative. I would recommend those sessions without reservation. If last year is a guide, however, you will need to understand Japanese if you want to do more than just sample Suntory`s excellent drinks.

Of course, there are also loads of fascinating non-Japanese whisky classes, some of which will be in English. One of the great things about Whisky Live is that it is largely bilingual. In line with this, their website is in both English and Japanese. This page explains in English how to buy tickets and master class passes.

Ulf Buxrud [1,2] will be signing copies of his new book Japanese Whisky - Facts, Figures and Taste at the Whisky Magazine Shop in the foyer. If you want to expand your knowledge of Japanese whisky just go and pick Ulf`s mind for a few minutes. I know I will be.

There is also a signing by master blender Richard Paterson of his book "Goodness Nose". Nonjatta has mentioned before that Paterson is a manga superhero in his spare time. Millions of people know of him only through this comic book alter ego. I have never met a manga character in real life before!

Event organiser David Croll says: "I guess also of interest to lovers of Japanese whisky would be the announcement of the heat winners of the 2009 World Whiskies Awards. As you remember, Yoichi 1987 and Hibiki 30 year old won the global awards in their categories last year.

"There will also be some interesting news about Whisky Magazine Japan, to be announced by editor-in-chief Dave Broom, and a Live! debate about the relative merits of official and independent Bottlers."

Finally, by way of justification of my clumsily alliterative headline, the organisers were so taken with the couture on show at last year’s Whisky Live (looks better in the high quality version) that they have decided to offer prizes to the best turned out drammers. Dust of the kilts, cummerbunds and kimonos and dress to impress!

The logo displayed at the top of the article is from the Whisky Live website. Superb design this year, don`t you think?

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

How valuable are “expert” reviews?

I know that many of you enjoy reading my reviews of new whiskies coming on the market, so you might be a bit surprised when I tell you this: Don’t just take my word for it!

My reviews should just be one of several resources you use when making a decision on what whisky to buy. Let me give you some examples to prove my point.

I rated the new Canadian Club 30 year old 150th Anniversary bottling a “93.” Paul Pacult, in his Spirit Journal, gave it “Two Stars/Not Recommended.” Similarly, I rated White Bowmore a “94,” while he gave it “One Star/Not Recommended.” I rated “The Last Drop” blended scotch a “95″ and Jim Murray in his Whisky Bible gave it a whopping “96.5. Paul rated it “Two Stars/Not Recommended.” I could give examples going the other way, where Paul likes a whisky more than I do.

Jim Murray and I also differ on some whiskies. There are some very young American whiskies where Jim Murray rates in the mid 90s (Triple Eight’s Notch, Stranahan’s Colorado whisky, etc.) , where I rated these same whiskies in the high 70s or low 80s. I like the whiskies but can’t imagine calling them “Classics.”

I could cite similar examples between Dave Broom and Martine Nouet or Dominic Roskrow. Who’s right? Who’s wrong? Nobody! I respect all of these people. They are great whisky writers. Each of us has our own opinions of the whiskies we taste. Sometimes we agree. Sometimes we don’t.

Now, if every one of us likes a whisky, there’s probably a good chance you will too. But only if you like that style of whisky. Nothing will ever replace you actually tasting the whisky before you buy.

 Whisky reviews are merely tools to use when you don’t have the opportunity to “try before you buy.” My advice is for you to find a whisky reviewer who you feel comfortable with–someone who has similar likes and dislikes. If that’s me great. If not, that’s great too. Maybe it’s a whisky buddy you trust. Maybe it’s they salesman at your local retail shop. Maybe it’s your dog! Hey, whatever works for you.

Just have the right tools to help you make informed, educated decisions when buying whisky. Then you’ll be more satisfied with the purchases you make.

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Photograph: Ben Matthews

Three Indie Auchroisk

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